April 29, 2012

Tailoring goes on

The most exciting part of the coat (at least for me): that what is called "the turning of the cloth" in my instruction book. Doesn't that sound great, like the title of an opera or Shakespeare play?

In practice it was less theatrical. First I stitched the undercollar to the coat. 

Then I stitched the upper collar to the facing, and pinned the whole part to the neckline seam of the coat. 

Then I put the coat on my dressform and smoothed the collars out. As both collars are "folded" at the roll line, the upper collar does not meet the edge of the undercollar. I marked the line where the upper collar ends with pins. 

And then finally I stitched the upper collar-facing part to the undercollar-garment part, right sides facing. I have to admit I took a few shortcuts here. The result is - not at all a perfect collar, but the best collar I've ever sewn, and I am really happy with it! Doesn't it look nice?

What you can't see on the photo: some hairs of the hair canvas of the undercollar do prick through the fabric. I cut them short but still they tend to peek out... luckily, there is enough fabric between my neck and the collar so it will not bother me a lot. 

I also set in the sleeves, and I added sleeve heads! I like how sleeve caps are decently supported by sleeveheads. I had to cut them smaller after putting them in, tough, as my shoulders were looking too square first (same reason why I don't like shoulder pads). 

I also hemmed the coat already, so now it is ready to get its lining, to hide everything that is inside the coat now! I can't wait the coat to be finished (anyway, there will be no occasion to wear it in the next time, as the temperature here jumped up to around 30°C! This happens to me everytime I make a jacket or coat, it's a bit annoying). 


  1. Good lord this is impressive! I've never made a coat, your collar looks fantastic!


  2. Thank you! You should try making a coat one day, it is a garment I like to sew a lot. Dresses and coats, there you have the widest range of designs, I think!


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